Screenprinting on Textiles by Westergaard Sue;

Author:Westergaard, Sue;
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Crowood

Method

• Measure out 2 litres of water per 100g fabric into a plastic container or bucket. In hard water areas, water softeners such as Calgon PT powder (2g) should be added if true shade is desired.

• Weigh out the salt and add it to the water, ensuring it’s fully dissolved.

• Weigh out Procion MX dyes, ensuring use of personal protective equipment. Dissolve in a little tepid water. When fully dissolved, add to the water and salt bucket and stir well.

• Remove the fabric from the soda ash bath. Wring, open up and add to the dye bath. If you didn’t soak the fabric, wet it fully first before adding to the dye bath, otherwise the fabric will dye patchy.

• Let it soak for 30–45 minutes, gently stirring and rotating the fabric to make sure it’s fully submerged and evenly dyed.

•Traditionally at this point you would remove the fabric and add the soda ash (dissolved in a cup of hot water) into the dye bath, mix well then return the fabric for another 30–45 minutes. However, if you pre-soaked the fabric you would skip this step.

• Once the fabric has reached the desired shade (this is often hard to tell; usually the shade halves when washed out, so double the desired shade), remove it from the dye bath and rinse in cold water until the water runs clear.

• Wash in hot soapy water to remove excess dye, then rinse in cold water; or hot wash in the washing machine (a colour-catching cloth is recommended).

• Make a note of the dye recipe and soak time to reproduce the same shade in future.

• The dye bath can be reduced down by leaving it uncovered for a couple of days until the water has evaporated then stored in a plastic bottle/container to be used again in future. Or it can be poured down the sink with care, as it may cause staining.

Dysperse/disperse dyes

These are used to dye synthetic fibres such as acrylic, polyester, nylon, etc. However, each fibre absorbs the dye differently: polyester, for example, will always dye paler than acrylic and will need more dye to achieve brighter colouring. Unlike other dyes, dysperse dyes don’t require an added fixative to remain in the fabrics – all they need is a high heat.

Some recipes calls for a ‘dyspersing agent’ to stop speckling but on small-scale dyeing this is usually unnecessary.

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